Part 1: Remembering Our Roots, Re-connecting to the Ocean, and Reflecting on Our Priorities
Authored by Gauri Salunkhe, based on her experiences during her 4.5 month field work in Fiji for her Master’s thesis project. This is part 1 of a two-part article that introduces the community-managed marine conservation work as a nature-based solution in Naidiri village, Fiji. Part 2 will delve deeper into the local indigenous knowledge and gender perspectives.
“There are no more suitable people on Earth to be the custodians of the oceans than those for whom the sea is home.”
– Epeli Hau’ofa, a prominent Fijian-Tongan writer and anthropologist, in his essay, “Our Sea of Islands”. He has written extensively about the deep connection Pacific Islanders have with the ocean.
First impressions: A Journey into Fiji’s Marine Conservation and Indigenous Knowledge and Practices
05 March 2024
As I gazed out the plane window, soft white clouds stretched around us, concealing the view of the tropical paradise I’d heard so much about. Then, suddenly, an opening—a glimpse of lush green hills cascading down to sandy beaches, meeting the clear blue waters of the vast Pacific Ocean. We descended toward Nadi International Airport in Fiji, my first view of the island where I’d spend 4.5 months for my Master’s thesis fieldwork. Partnering with Dr. Austin Bowden-Kerby of Corals for Conservation, I aimed to explore how indigenous knowledge could be integral to creating sustainable Nature-based Solutions (NbS) for marine and coastal ecosystems.
07 March 2024
Dr Austin turned into a wood fenced area, the village of Naidiri on the southwest coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s largest island. We drove through a grassy green field, passing colourful houses – yellow, blue, pink, green – until we reached the other end and stopped in front of a large bure[1], the village chief’s bure. We stooped through a short door, leaving our footwear outside, into a large space.
“Cola[2]! Cola! Welcome to Naidiri!”
We were greeted very enthusiastically. This is the first time we met Manoa Duwai, Naidiri’s local “marine hero” who had pioneered the community-managed Marine Protected Area (MPA) 15 years ago. Through his leadership, the local youth group maintains the MPA with coral restoration, mangrove planting, fish warden training, and more.
Naidiri’s MPA was the focal point of my research. Naidiri is along the coral coast of Fiji that stretches over 80km along the south-west coast of Viti Levu and is a key coral reef habitat that acts as a buffer against ocean waves, creating a protected area ideal for fishing and harvesting seafood. This village of 147 people that are all indigenous Fijians (iTaukei) relies on its traditional fishing grounds, or qoliqoli, which Naidiri shares with two neighbouring villages, Malomalo and Nalele, that are part of the same Vanua[3] as Naidiri. These fishing areas are controlled by the Vanua, who oversee the organisation and regulation of fishing activities within their qoliqoli. The villagers use their own artisanal fishing methods, with women line-fishing, octopus (hulua) spearing, or gathering shellfish and sea grapes (nama) at low tide, and men spear-fishing or working together to net fish. They also carry out subsistence farming on ancestral lands, growing root crops like cassava (tavioka), taro (dalo), and sweet potato (kumala), and fruits like breadfruit (uto), coconut (niu), and papaya (weleti). Most of the harvest sustains the village, while any surplus is sold in nearby Sigatoka town.
Naidiri’s reliance on subsistence fishing and farming makes them particularly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change, biodiversity loss and other human-induced pressures affecting their resources. My research, centred on this community, would explore how local indigenous knowledge and practices could strengthen and sustain NbS like their MPA, making it a model for marine and coastal ecosystem resilience.
14 March 2024
An enthusiastic woman named Susana — affectionately known as Lewa Su — welcomed us into her simple yet cozy grey house with pink windows. Albeit simple, this became a home for Charly, a marine biologist volunteering with C4C, and me where we shared many beautiful moments with the community of Naidiri in the next four months. As soon as we settled in, Manoa came knocking on our door, with Kevu, the local youth leader, and Aporosa, one of the youth members, in tow, excited to bring us on our first snorkelling tour of the MPA.
Standing on the white sandy beach next to the village, Charly and I donned our snorkelling masks and fins. I was overcome with emotion as we stepped into the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean, and I had my first look into one of the clearest waters that I have swum in, knowing I’d swim in these crystal-clear waters almost everyday. Manoa, Kevu and Aporosa led us through vibrant coral reefs teeming with colourful fish darting between the corals.
This was our first look into the community-managed MPA, also known as tabu, that was established in Naidiri’s qoliqoli since 2009. It spans 280m along the beach and 240m out to the reef, with strict fishing restrictions and active coral restoration, all managed by the Naidiri Youth Group. A temporary tabu was also established in 2021 next to the permanent tabu, where only octopus fishing is allowed, and it may be opened for fishing for a large village event. My research would focus on the MPA (permanent tabu), observing its impact on the community and marine ecosystem since its establishment.
A glimpse into Naidiri’s MPA
From Rice and Tiny Fish to a Legacy of Conservation
One evening in 2008, Manoa returned to his village home in Naidiri after an exhausting game of touch rugby with his friends. His stomach rumbled as he thought of the hearty meal waiting for him. Instead, he found only plain rice and tea. Disappointed, he visited his friend’s house nearby, but they had the same. Determined to change their luck, the two friends decided to go night fishing at the reef right next to the village. Armed with spearguns, they spent more than an hour scouring the reef in search of a decent catch, but all they could find were tiny, palm-sized fish. They returned home disheartened and ate their small fish with rice. As they ate, Manoa turned to his friend and sighed, “Man! If the fish are this small now, what will our children eat?”
That simple question sparked something powerful. Manoa and his friend remembered the ancient tabu practice their ancestors had once used—a temporary no-fishing zone established after significant events like the passing of a village elder that allowed fish populations to recover. They envisioned a similar tabu for Naidiri’s reef, a place where fish could grow and multiply. Soon, they shared their idea with the entire village. While many were supportive, others—particularly some of the women who fished in the area proposed for the tabu—resisted the idea. The ocean had long been central to the women’s lives, providing food and a sense of tradition. They worried that they would have to travel further to fish, taking time away from their families and other daily tasks.
Undeterred, Manoa and his friend used empty bottles tied to ropes to mark the no-fishing zone. Yet resistance lingered. Some villagers cut down the bottles and fished in the restricted area. Determined, Manoa and his friend turned to the matanivanua, Naidiri’s traditional spokesperson, who helped them seek approval from the Vanua’s high chief (Turaganivanua). Once the chief gave his blessing, the tabu was formally established in 2009 over a modest 30m x 40m section of reef. With the chief’s support, the community stopped tampering with the markers, and the tabu took hold.
Just a few months later, the young leaders were invited to a coral-planting workshop led by the Organisation for Industrial, Spiritual, and Cultural Advancement (OISCA). Here, they learned coral restoration techniques and immediately began coral planting within the tabu. The momentum grew, and by 2011, the Naidiri Youth Group was officially established to monitor and protect the area. In 2017, they formed the Naidiri Yaubula (Environmental) Management Support Team, making Naidiri one of only seven villages out of 122 villages in the province of Nadroga-Navosa with such a group dedicated to environmental conservation at that time.
Over the years, the tabu grew into a full-fledged MPA, covering 280m along the beach and 240m out to the sea as of 2024. In 2021, a new, temporary tabu was added. Octopus fishing was allowed considering the needs of the women who are the primary fishers of octopus and the tabu areas are the main areas where octopus are caught at low tide. Furthermore, octopus are primary predators of the giant clams that are bred in the MPA, and this would be a mechanism to reduce predation of the giant clams. To guard against poaching, some of the Naidiri youth received training as fish wardens through the Ministries of Youth and Sports, and Fisheries, giving them the authority to enforce the MPA and fishing ground’s rules.
Today, the MPA is flourishing with coral planting as a cornerstone of the community’s efforts. With training from NGOs and researchers—and some techniques they devised themselves—the youth employ various coral planting methods. Their preferred method is planting of heat-resistant corals using “A-frames” that enhance fish habitats and hold strong against strong waves and storm surges, part of the UNESCO-endorsed “Reefs of Hope” initiative, a notable Ocean Decade Action.
In recognition of their dedication, Naidiri’s MPA was honoured as a Marine Biodiversity Park by Fiji’s Ministry of Environment and Climate Change in 2022, celebrating their commitment to protecting natural resources and upholding traditional values in marine conservation. What started with a simple meal of rice and small fish has now become a legacy of conservation for future generations.
Naidiri’s MPA featured in SBS World News
Naidiri’s Marine Protected Area as a Nature-based Solution
Nature-based Solutions (NbS) are nature-inspired strategies to tackle environmental and social issues, recognised by IPCC and IPBES as effective, often cost-efficient, ways to address global challenges. NbS supports goals like climate resilience and biodiversity. However, most NbS focus on urban and land contexts, overlooking rural and coastal areas. Despite having fewer examples, NbS in marine and coastal areas hold immense potential for advancing global climate and biodiversity goals through strategies like marine protected areas, spatial management, and ecosystem restoration. These strategies support climate mitigation, adaptation, and the development of a sustainable blue economy.
Naidiri’s tabu is unique among Fiji’s locally-managed MPAs. Unlike traditional tabus, which primarily enforce no-fishing rules, Naidiri’s MPA combines coral planting and clam breeding projects with the no-fishing policy. The synergy between coral planting and no-fishing rules has created a balanced, mutually supportive ecosystem. Grazing fish, such as farmer fish, play a crucial role here; their increased populations graze on algae that might otherwise out-compete coral. With less competition from algae, the corals have room to grow, providing more habitat and safe spaces for fish to breed. In turn, the growing fish populations continue to maintain the reef’s balance, allowing both coral and fish to thrive together.
The primary coral planting method in Naidiri uses fish habitat-enhancing frames that are part of the “Reefs of Hope” strategy, a United Nations (UN) Ocean Decade Action. This method prioritises planting naturally heat-resistant coral species to improve resilience in rising ocean temperatures. This approach enhances natural selection for heat resilience, helping the reef adapt to climate change stressors. Naidiri’s MPA not only conserves biodiversity for a more resilient ecosystem but also provides crucial environmental services, such as fishery support, reducing coastal erosion, and climate adaptation, increasing the adaptive capacity, and reducing the ecological vulnerability. Through these multi-layered benefits, Naidiri’s protected area stands out as a model NbS for marine and coastal ecosystems.
In recent years, the reef has seen an increase in fish populations and sizes. Although many of these fish live within the MPA’s boundaries, where fishing is off-limits, they sometimes venture beyond its borders, allowing local fishers to catch them. This “spillover” has bolstered food security for the community and decreased their socio-economic vulnerability. With greater access to fish and other seafood, families in Naidiri now have enough to feed themselves and can even sell any surplus. On top of this, the government recently recognized Naidiri’s MPA as a Marine Biodiversity Park, attracting snorkelers eager to explore its vibrant underwater world. Snorkelling tourism has since become an additional source of income, especially for local youth that are tour guides for the visitors. This has diversified the community’s income source.
Furthermore, various organisations, researchers, and government agencies have offered the community workshops on coral restoration, fish monitoring, and guiding tours. With this training, Naidiri’s youth have gained valuable skills to manage the MPA and promote sustainable practices. The visits from international researchers and students have led to rich exchanges, blending scientific insights with local indigenous knowledge. This collaboration has empowered the community to enhance their stewardship of the MPA and increased their socio-economic adaptive capacity.
In the end, the MPA has become more than a protected area; it has transformed into a vital source of resilience for Naidiri. By reducing the community’s sensitivity to external pressures and boosting their adaptability, the MPA has contributed to a more secure and hopeful future for the people of Naidiri.
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank my Master’s thesis supervisor, Zahra Kalantari, for her unwavering support of this project, insightful feedback and guidance, inspiring ideas, and her confidence in my ability to see it through from the very beginning. I would also like to thank my co-supervisor, Austin Bowden-Kerby, for providing me the opportunity to work in Naidiri. His vast knowledge and experience in corals and coral restoration, along with his understanding of working in Fiji, have been a tremendous resource. A big kudos to Manoa and Charly for their support in data collection, the endless joy and laughter from the ulu levus, and their shared passion for marine conservation made the work so much more enjoyable.
I would like to express my deepest appreciation to the community of Naidiri for their trust and willingness to share their invaluable knowledge and experiences. I am profoundly grateful for the love and acceptance they showed me, treating me as part of the community, making my stay in Naidiri unforgettable. And I extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone else who supported and encouraged me with the true Bula spirit of Fiji. Lastly, I want to express my deep appreciation for the marine life in Naidiri’s MPA. The pristine and beautiful ecosystems revealed their richness and various dimensions every time we snorkelled. I hope this project plays a small role in helping to preserve them for the future.
Links to learn more about this project
Gauri Salunkhe’s Master’s Thesis Report “A multidisciplinary approach in implementing nature-based solutions (NbS) for marine and coastal ecosystems – Case study of a locally-managed Marine Protected Area (MPA) initiated by local indigenous knowledge and methods in Fiji”
Naidiri Marine Biodiversity Park Website
“Reefs of Hope” United Nations (UN) Ocean Decade Action
Publication by Austin Bowden-Kerby about “Reefs of Hope” Paradigm “Coral-Focused Climate Change Adaptation and Restoration Based on Accelerating Natural Processes: Launching the “Reefs of Hope” Paradigm”
Naidiri Marine Biodiversity Park Instagram
Naidiri Marine Biodiversity Park Facebook
Naidiri Marine Biodiversity Park Youtube
Naidiri Marine Biodiversity Park Linkedin
[1] A bure is a traditional indigenous Fijian house made with weaved bamboo for the walls and a thatched roof
[2] Cola, pronounced at “thola”, is a greeting in the local Fijian dialect (Nadroga dialect) spoken in Naidiri
[3] Vanua refers to the land, sea, and people that one is traditionally connected to; the overall socio-biological environment